Holiday Glogg - hot mulled wine

Brrrrrr, baby it's cold outside! Well, it is winter, the festive holiday season, and temperatures have dropped. Snow is predicted over the weekend and skiers are ecstatic. But who needs an excuse to enjoy mug after mug of Glogg (hot mulled wine)? It can be served hot or cold, though the warm version is traditional, a celebratory beverage to warm both body and soul. Glogg smells divine and tastes even better; a potent, comforting drink that can deliver a kick... or more likely make me sleepy after several mugfuls. 

Whether you call it Nordic Glogg, German Gluhwein, Canadian Caribou, UK Wassail, or hot wine in a variety of languages, you will find recipes for mulled wine vary greatly, even within cultures. Typically the main ingredients include red wine, sugar, spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, ginger and cloves plus citrus and occasionally brandy. Potent, indeed.

Photo: Batch 1 Glogg ingredients

Photo: Batch 2 Glogg ingredients

No time to create your own mixture? Retailers can supply premixed mulling spice blends, Glogg concentrate or even bottles of already prepared Glogg. Myself, I'll go with easy-to-prepare homemade Holiday Glogg  and serve it in honor of the New Year, and to salute the memory of a wonderful holiday visit in snowy Central Oregon earlier this week. 

Try this tasty beverage, perhaps play around with the spice mix ingredients to create your own flavor blend. Here's the recipe from my latest batch of Holiday Glogg. Enjoy, and Happy New Year!

Holiday Glogg

1 bottle red wine (or hard apple cider)
10 green cardamom pods, crushed (not ground)
1/2 cup raisins 
2 dried apricots 
5 blanched almonds
2 star anise
5 whole cloves (not ground)
5 pieces crystallized ginger (not ground)
1 whole nutmeg, grated or cracked
10 whole peppercorns
1 long cinnamon stick (not ground)
1 small bay leaf
zest and fruit of an orange, cut in rounds

4-8 sugar cubes
Garnish: 1 additional orange and 4 cinnamon sticks
(use 1 cinnamon stick and a citrus twist or wedge per serving)

1. Simmer all ingredients except sugar cubes and garnish, covered, in a nonreactive saucepan for 30 minutes. Be careful not to boil the mix.
2. Strain to remove the solids. (You might want to keep the nuts and fruit to use in baked goods.) Cool and refrigerate for several hours or overnight.
3. To serve, reheat the mixture over low heat (do not boil!). Serve Glogg in a warmed glass over a sugar cube or two. Garnish with a cinnamon stick and an orange slice or twist. 

Options to consider:

* Add 1/4 cup rum, brandy and/or port to the heated mixture after straining.
* Make a double batch to enjoy some immediately and bottle the rest to serve later in the season. It mellows and blends the flavors, improving with age. Refrigerate to hold.

Hummus With Lamb and Pine Nuts

Just one bite of creamy, lemony hummus, warmed and topped with fragrant, flavorful lamb offers up a taste that whispers 'comfort food' in any language. Add some warm pita bread for scooping and you have an awesome appetizer or supper option. There are many more complicated recipes for Hummus and Lamb Kwarma available online (David Lebovitz posted this one recently), but I adapted a simple version found in a favorite Middle Eastern cookbook, An Edible Mosaic by Faith Gorsky. Faith's recipes reflect Syrian family recipes and a wealth of eating experiences in the Middle East, translating it for home cooks everywhere. My pantry held all of the required ingredients, ordinary items, but the combination was deliciously unique.  

Use your favorite hummus recipe if you like, but try it warmed and topped with this crunchy, spicy ground lamb. The resulting dish might tempt you to play with the seasonings and toppings to suit your own taste. Mmmmmm, with some added lemon zest and flat-leaf parsley, maybe a splash or two of harissa, this dish will definitely make more appearances in my kitchen and galley.

Hummus with Lamb and Pine Nuts

For the Hummus:

1 large can chickpeas (2-1/2 cups), drained & liquid reserved

1/4 cup tahini, well stirred

4 Tbs fresh lemon juice (add more to taste)

2 large cloves garlic, minced or crushed (more to taste)

2 Tbs olive oil

4-8 Tbs chickpea liquid, more or less as needed

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp smoky paprika

salt and white pepper to taste (optional)

1. Prepare & set aside, ready to warm in the microwave before use.
2. Use a food processor to puree the chickpeas, tahini paste, lemon juice, garlic, olive oil and a few tablespoons of the cooking liquid. Aim for a medium-thick spread, adding more or less liquid one tablespoon at a time as required. 
3. Stir in the cumin, paprika, salt and white pepper. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed. 

For the lamb:

2 Tbs olive oil

1 small onion, finely diced

8-oz lean ground lamb

1/4 tsp salt

1/8 tsp ground cinnamon

1/4 tsp ground allspice 

1/4 tsp ground clove

1/4 tsp ground nutmeg

1/4 tsp sumac (or za'atar)

Sprinkle of red pepper flakes (optional)

Several grinds of black peppercorns

2 Tbs toasted pine nuts (plus more for optional topping)

1. Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat; add the onion and sauté until it begins to soften, about 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. Add the ground lamb, salt, spices and pepper. Raise the heat to high; cook until meat is fully browned and the onion is tender, about 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. 
3. Stir in the pine nuts and cook 2 minutes more, stirring occasionally. 

To serve:

Warm the prepared hummus in the microwave; spoon onto a platter or bowl. Use the spoon to create a slight depression in the middle of the hummus. Pour the lamb on top of the warmed hummus. Sprinkle with more pine nuts, if desired, and serve with warmed pita bread wedges for scooping.

Note: hummus and spiced lamb can be prepared ahead and held in the refrigerator for several days. Warm each before serving.

Cheese Soup with Vegetables

Here's the recipe for today's warming bowl of soup, some comfort food to welcome the 2016 Winter Solstice on December 21, a day when the sun reaches its most southerly declination. This is the shortest day and longest night of the year in the northern hemisphere. In Seattle solstice daylight measures 8 hours, 25 minutes and 25 seconds between sunrise and sunset. I mistakenly thought solstice had already arrived on several dark, dreary days earlier this month, times when the clouds covered the sun for the entire day. And today, the shortest day of the year, the sun shone all day. Go figure!

Humans have noted this special day for ages. link link  

"The Stonehenge monument - built in 3,000 to 2,000 BC - shows how carefully our ancestors watched the sun

 "Across the world in Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula, the ancient stonewalled city Mayan city of Tulum also has a structure honoring the solstices. When the sun rises on the winter (and the summer) solstice, its rays shine through a small hole at the top of one of the stone buildings, which creates a starburst effect. 

"Stonehenge is carefully aligned on a sight-line that points to the winter solstice sunset...

"It is thought that the winter solstice was actually more important to the people who constructed Stonehenge than the summer solstice. The winter solstice was a time when most cattle were slaughtered (so they would not have to be fed during the winter) and the majority of wine and beer was finally fermented.

With no cattle to slaughter and a total lack of homebrew to sample, I'll honor the Winter Solstice with a bowl of soup, some comfort food to warm the tummy and recognize the shortened daylight hours. I'll also celebrate the fact that from now on the days will grow longer, minute by minute, until we reach the summer solstice with its promise of maximum light. Sigh, my inner California girl is so ready for more hours of sunshine!
   
This cheese soup is not showstoppingly pretty, not even close, but it does pack a delicious flavor punch. Think cheese fondue studded with healthy vegetables and you're close. Version 1 of the recipe came from the Vincent Price cookbook, A Treasury of Great Recipes. Price's recipe for Vermont Cheese Soup strained the vegetables (leeks, celery & onions) out of the broth to produce a silky liquid base for melting the cheese. I added carrots to the mix in Version 2 and did not strain out the vegetables. This produced a more casual, rustic soup, somewhat heartier than Price's refined, suitable-for-company presentation.    

Photo: Version 2 Cheese Soup with Vegetables

In Version 3 cauliflower and broccoli florets, minced garlic and fresh thyme joined the party. I tinkered with the process, played with the seasonings, and voila! we have a new current favorite. Here's the 2016 version of Cheese Soup with Vegetables from my galley.

Cheese Soup with Vegetables

3 Tbs butter

1 fat leek, chopped (white part only)

1/2 medium onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled & minced

1 stalk celery, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

1/2 cup cauliflower florets

1/2 cup broccoli florets

2 Tbs flour

1/8 tsp white pepper

1/8 tsp nutmeg

2 cups low-sodium chicken broth

2 cups half-and-half

Hot sauce, to taste, or sprinkle of cayenne (optional)

Generous splash or two of dry vermouth or sherry

1 cup, firmly packed, shredded sharp white cheddar cheese

1/2 cup shredded pepper jack cheese

Fresh thyme leaves for topping

1. Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium heat. Add leeks & onions; stir occasionally & cook until softened.
2. Add the garlic, celery, carrots, cauliflower & broccoli; cook for a minute or two until garlic is fragrant. Sprinkle the flour, pepper & nutmeg over the vegetables and stir to coat. Cook until the mixture just begins to brown.
3. Whisk in the chicken broth & cream. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat; reduce heat and simmer until vegetables soften to desired texture.   
4. Move the pot off the heat & stir in the hot sauce and vermouth. Let the soup cool slightly to avoid curdling when you add the cheese. Slowly add the shredded cheddar and jack cheese, whisking until the cheese melts. Taste and adjust seasonings as necessary. Sprinkle with fresh thyme leaves and serve immediately.

Note: to hold and reheat, remember to use low heat. DO NOT let it boil or it will separate. I guarantee it. The soup will taste the same, but look... unlovely. 

In My Kitchen - December 2016

The kitchen window bay and an adjacent counter hold pots of blooming paperwhites (narcissus). Planted just prior to Halloween the bulbs were intended to bloom for Thanksgiving, but waited instead until days after the holiday had passed. 

Now we have scads of blossoming narcissi, all but the one stubborn bulb that sits, still sulking, hunkered down in the pot full of gravel. Is it waiting to celebrate the new year instead? No matter, as other fragrant blooms now perfume the air with their pungent aroma for pre-Christmas enjoyment. I love the scent, but have read that others find it horribly objectionable (link). Hmmm, I imagine Paperwhite scented perfumes must elicit interesting responses at some crowded venues.

Pyracantha berries clipped from plants in the yard decorated the Thanksgiving table and continue to add color to the winter kitchen. On dreary, gray days I especially appreciate these little pops of color.

Speaking of color pops, check out these vivid Poppy silicone pot lids. They are functional and gorgeous, newly purchased online at Amazon on a whim after seeing the green, lilypad covers posted by Liz last month. More and more red items find their way into my kitchen each year.

This purple spoon holder doesn't have a color match anywhere in the kitchen, but it does add whimsical functionality along with a bit of color. Three cheers for silicone gadgetry. 

Another cute little tool, newly added to the gadget stash, has already seen useful action dusting sourdough loaves with flour and adding showers of powdered sugar to breakfast crepes. It is tiny but mighty... ok, mighty useful as a one-handed device that is tidier than using a small strainer. Gadget love continues.

November's shipment of fresh spices prompted reorganization of the spice cabinet. This time I remembered to date each jar; a useful habit to see which spices get heavy use and spot any old, underused spices that should just be discarded, certainly not replaced. Keeping track of spices afloat and ashore is an ongoing issue. This year it was hard to find tarragon, fresh or dried, in local groceries - what's up with that?  

Years ago Mom knit several corn cob potholders for my cast iron skillets. The yarn has faded, the potholders grown stained and worn with use, but I'm still fond of them. I could find a pattern and knit a few more, but replacements wouldn't hold the Mom connection. It might be time to switch to more practical silicone handle covers.

What do you eat when you cook for yourself? When RL was out of town for a week I enjoyed comfort food that I love but he's not fond of. For example...

bowls of long grain and wild rice with broccoli and cheese at dinner... 

spinach salad with a soft poached egg and walnut sourdough toasts for breakfast...

Brussels sprouts and mushroom hash...

mac and cheese with chiles... 

pan-roasted yams and squash, solo and then in hash...

Only fresh fruits, no baked goods, made the dessert list during that week; no surprise there as savory tends to win out over sweets when I cook what I like. But now it's full speed ahead into holiday mode and there will be baking in my kitchen this month. C'mon by any time for a sweet treat and a visit.

Meanwhile, visit BizzyLizzysGoodThings to enjoy a peek into other kitchens around the world. The accomplished Lizzy (Australian writer, cook & traveler) hosts this fun IMK gathering each month. 

Monte Cristo Sandwich

Thanksgiving dinner arrived at the door along with the hugs and warm greetings of family. They brought it all, everything, the entire dinner. Everything even included the turkey fryer for an 18-pound bird! (Note: I was allowed to contribute my Zesty Cranberry Relish.) What a thoughtful, caring present from this cast of characters; Seattlites Niece Hilary and Dave plus Californians Meg and Brother Mike. For hours the house was filled with conversation, friendly teasing, suspected tall tales and humorous stories, wedding plan updates and endless laughter. All in all, a terrific family celebration and a delicious meal. 

Photo: The Thanksgiving Cooks 2016

On Friday RL and I revisited Thanksgiving memories, surveyed the many containers of leftovers in the fridge, and nibbled on a rerun of Thursday's feast. 

Turkey sandwiches, enjoyed late night or next day, are always a major highlight of this holiday meal. Some years we favor simple sliced turkey on white bread, other years we crave Kentucky Hot Browns with cheese sauce or turkey gravy. This year we opted for Turkey and Ham Monte Cristo Sandwiches. Possibly a variation of the Croque Monsieur, this batter-dipped, butter-fried sandwich is an over-the-top and delicious use of leftover turkey meat. Ooey gooey, salty, savory decadence... sigh, but so worth every artery clogging bite (and a reason to return to healthier eating the very next day).  

My Monte Cristos are a cross between French Toast and a grilled cheese and meat sandwich, occasionally with some crispy bacon added... just 'cuz. No recipe required, just freeform it.

1. Use 2 slices of bread per sandwich. Slather one side of the bread with mayonnaise and Dijon mustard. Add some chutney or cranberry relish if you like.

2. Alternate layers of thin-sliced meat (ham and/or turkey), cheese (Havarti or Swiss) and bacon (optional) on the bread. Close the sandwich and press top gently to compact slightly. This will help hold it all together when you flip it in the  pan.

3. Beat an egg and a bit of milk in a pie pan or shallow, rimmed plate. Dip each side of the sandwich briefly in the egg mixture, long enough to coat thoroughly but not get soggy. You want a crisp exterior and soft, gooey middle. 

4. Melt a pat of butter in a heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Place coated sandwich in frying pan and cook until bottom is golden brown. Flip the sandwich, adding more butter as needed, and cook until the second side is golden brown and the cheese is melted. This takes 4 to 5 minutes per side in my kitchen.

5. Transfer to a cutting board and let cool briefly to set cheese a bit. Cut into wedges, plate and serve.

Note: It is traditional to dust the sandwiches with powdered sugar and serve with a side of jelly. I skip that feature, relishing the salty, savory richness of the sandwich without the distraction of an added sweet. For a flavor pop, I would prefer a swipe of Zesty Cranberry Relish rather than powdered sugar and jam, but that's just me. 

Don't wait for Thanksgiving to enjoy a Monte Cristo. They are delicious using deli-sliced cold cuts or meat pulled from a deli-roasted chicken. Get creative and add some roasted green chiles, or substitute thin waffles for the bread. Go for it! 

Joe's Special - a classic scramble

What do you cook when you're busy and don't want to mess with multiple courses? It's one-skillet recipes to the rescue! This dish, the iconic scramble Joe's Special, is especially welcome during the busy week before a holiday. My version of Joe's Special is quick and easy to prepare, calls for ordinary pantry ingredients and the finished dish is satisfyingly delicious. Win!

We first encountered Joe's Special in the late 60's at  Thirteen Coins Restaurant, a hidden Seattle treasure. Hidden? the restaurant eschewed streetside signage but was well-known for 24/7 service, upholstered swiveling captain's chairs at the counter, an open exhibition kitchen and an extensive menu. Some 40+ years later Thirteen Coins still lists Joe's Special on the menu; that's the staying power of a good restaurant and a classic dish!

Joe's Special has its own history, originating in San Francisco perhaps during the 1850's following the Gold Rush... or in the 1920s... or maybe the late 30's... depending on which source you believe. (link), (link), (link) Most recipes include onion, hamburger, spinach and enough eggs to hold it all together in a scramble. My version adds mushrooms and Parmesan cheese to the mix plus some green Tabasco to pop the flavor. 

  
This classic scramble is not a pretty dish, but Oh! My! It's! Good! Good for breakfast, brunch, lunch, a light supper or occasional late night meal; it's even a proven beat-the-hangover choice. Lately Joe's Special was a welcome solution to serving a tasty meal when the schedule overflowed with too many things more important than cooking. Definitely a one-skillet recipe coming to the rescue!

Joe's Special

4 eggs (or 1-2 eggs per person)

1/4 tsp. nutmeg

1/2 tsp. dried Italian seasoning (or use dried basil and oregano)

salt and pepper

hot sauce to taste (Green Tabasco recommended)

2 Tbsp. olive oil

1 medium onion, small dice

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 pound lean ground beef

1/2 pound small mushrooms, sliced

4 cups fresh baby spinach (or 2 cups julienned kale)

1/2 cup fresh Parmesan shreds plus more for topping.

1. In a small bowl beat together the eggs, nutmeg, Italian seasoning, salt and pepper, and a generous splash or two of hot sauce. Set aside.
2. Use a large skillet and heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Cook the onions until they just soften, then sir in the garlic and cook until the onions turn golden.
3. Add the beef and mushrooms. Stirring occasionally, cook until the meat is no longer pink and the mushrooms give up some liquid.
4. Add the spinach (or kale) and cook until the greens wilt and the liquid in the pan has evaporated.
5. Lower the heat to medium-low; add the beaten eggs and cook, stirring often, until the eggs are done (slightly dry but still tender). Remove from the heat and stir in the Parmesan.
6. Serve immediately with extra cheese to sprinkle on top.

Apple Quick Bread with Hatch Chiles & Nuts

What is sweet/hot/salty/nutty delicious?

Everything baked in the Fall when apple season and chile harvest overlap... or maybe it just seems that way. Apples, green chiles and nuts are meant to mingle in so many tasty ways.

Our apple-plus-chile cravings developed during a New Mexico road trip, spurred on further with the purchase of Santa Fe Hot & Spicy Recipe.

Cookbooks and local specialty food items are my favorite souvenirs when we travel and I hit the jackpot with this collection of nearly 400 original recipes from Santa Fe's restaurant chefs. Chef's comments and cooking tips add an additional wealth of information. Often I would rather read a cookbook than a novel. You too?

The recipe for Green Chile Pecan Apple Pie (from chef Maggie Faralla at Zia Diner) launched me into full-blown apple/chile baking love. What's not to love about sweet and semi-spicy apple pie with a pecan crust?! Now it seems I want to tweak any apple recipe, savory or sweet, and add green chiles. We may live in the Pacific NorthWest, but we still relish spicy SouthWest flavors. 

This apple/chile quick bread recipe is still a work in progress; the first two batches were too moist and fall-apart crumbly to be quickbread, but were not quite cakelike either. I'll add some cornstarch to the dry ingredients in the next batch to see if it will work as a thickener and create a tighter crumb. If not, then cake pans might replace loaf pans and the result will become a coffeecake instead of a sliceable quickbread. (grin) I forsee a lot of taste tests coming up soon.

Apple Quick Bread with Hatch Chiles & Nuts

1-1/3 cups AP flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon Penzey's Apple Pie Spice
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup vegetable oil
2 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1/2 teaspoon lemon extract
2 cups apples, peeled, cored and coarsely chopped (2 medium Granny Smiths)
3 Hatch chiles (about 1/4 cup), roasted, peeled, deseeded, chopped and tossed with 1 Tablespoon of flour (or use a well-drained 4-oz can of roasted chiles)
1/2 cup dried currants (or golden raisins)
1/2 cup chopped walnuts (or pecans or pine nuts)
1 teaspoon sugar mixed with 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon (for topping)

1. Preheat the oven to 325 F.
2. Use cooking spray to coat 4 small loaf pans. Cover the sides and bottom of the pans with strips of parchment paper to help with pan release and lifting out. Spray the parchment paper.
3. In a small bowl combine the flour, salt, baking soda and spices.
4. In a larger mixing bowl combine the sugar and oil. Beat in the eggs, vanilla, almond & lemon extracts until well blended.
5. Stir in the apple chunks, chopped chiles, dried currants and chopped nuts.
6. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients; mix with a large spoon until the flour is thoroughly incorporated.
7. Pour the batter evenly into the 4 prepared pans.
8. Bake on the middle rack in the preheated 325 F oven for 20 minutes. Slide out the oven rack and sprinkle the mixed sugar and cinnamon topping mixture over the top of each loaf. Bake for an additional 40 to 60 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out clean.
9. Remove to a baking rack to rest before removing from the loaf pan. Let the loaves cool completely before slicing. Wrap tightly in waxed paper to hold for several days without drying out.  

In My Kitchen - November 2016

Autumn continues to speed by at breakneck speed. Leaves have changed from green to a bright neon palate and then poof! disappeared in the blink of an eye. Or so it seems from my kitchen windows as I spot more and more bare branches. 

October brought increased kitchen activity as I exchanged the walker for a cane and reclaimed the coveted role of Head Cook. This month I favored soups, salads, sandwiches and a lot of one-pot/one-dish entrees; relying on more familiar recipes rather than new and challenging dishes. For example...

Photo: Chicken Tortilla Soup

Photo: Veggie Frittata with chiles, mushrooms, onions and cheese

Photo: Greek Shrimp Taverna with a side of pasta

Lucky for me, RL retained his position as Head Butler and Dishwasher. (hooray!) Friend Charlene sewed two colorful tote bags, making it easier to carry more than one item at a time. These bags have saved a lot of steps and proved more practical than a backpack in the kitchen.

Easing back into action, I browsed through cabinets and drawers to see what was stored where - yes, RL had "organized" the kitchen once again. What a treat to rediscover this lovely fish serving set, seriously under-utilized since its purchase ages ago in some now-forgotten antique shop. Stainless fish spatulas are common utensils, but these serving pieces deserve a special outing or two. I see a bit of polish and a few dinner invitations coming up in the future.

In my kitchen old accessories rotate in and out of storage seasonally. Mom lives 1190 miles away and is no longer able to travel, but her presence is felt daily through various kitchen treasures. Salt and pepper shakers are special favorites, more decorative than functional but full of memories. Pumpkins claim center stage currently.

Do you have a favorite olive oil? Ever since the surprising olive oil kerfluffle, California Olive Ranch has been my oil of choice. It's now easy to find at local groceries. While curious about the taste differences of various other fresh-pressed olive oils, I'd much prefer a taste-test experience at a winery or distillery instead. No surprise there! 

Kitchen comfort food has featured Fall crop apples, mushrooms and Hatch chile peppers.

Even a recent ladies lunch with friends at Cafe Flora included an meatless French Dip sandwich with portabellas. And since you're probably wondering, no, I couldn't finish all of the crispy yam fries by myself. The sandwich was so delicious, it prompted a return visit to the restaurant with Hilary for another taste.

Fresh apple bread with chiles continues as a work in progress. So far we love the flavor, but the quick bread is too moist and crumbly; it's been more of a messy loaf cake. Rather than give up on the challenge (use a round cake pan or muffin tin and call it a cake), I am determined to produce a firmer apple/chile quick bread in loaf form. Eventually.

To see what's happening in other kitchens this month, click over to Lizzy's wonderful blog, Bizzy Lizzy's Good Things. You'll find links to an interesting international group of food bloggers.

Update on Nov. 11: after reading Sherry's comment about buying local olive sourced directly from producers, I wondered about my local producers (if any). I found one in the Pacific Northwest. Oregon Olive Mills, an olioteca in Oregon with 17 acres of olive trees adjoining their winery vineyards. Now I can plan a road trip and taste test both. Win!