Moroccan Chicken with Lemon, Green Olives & Capers

Chicken thighs, massaged with a Moroccan medley of spices, browned in a splash of oil and nestled in a pool of broth for stovetop braising yield a flavorful, succulent entree. Top the dish with a tangy lemony sauce and shazam! this becomes another weeknight favorite. It won't win top honors for beauty, but with some creative plating it might appear at a company dinner or two in the future.

When rushed for time I've prepared this in the pressure cooker, but feel more in control of the results with stovetop braising. Either way, Moroccan Chicken is a surprisingly tasty dinner item; much more than the sum of its parts. What more could you ask of the ubiquitous chicken thigh?

Photo: Braised chicken thighs on a bed of raw kale

Photo: Braised chicken thighs with lemon, olive & caper sauce

Moroccan Chicken

serves 2-4

Moroccan Spice Rub

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp ground cumin

1/2 tsp ground ginger

1/4 tsp ground coriander

1/4 tsp cinnamon

1/4 tsp red pepper flakes

4 large chicken thighs, bone-in & skin-on
1 TBS olive oil

1/2 cup onion, finely chopped

2 TBS minced or mashed garlic cloves

1 cup low-sodium chicken broth

1/4 cup lemon juice

1 heaping TBS capers

1/2 cup pimento-stuffed green olives, chopped in large chunks

1 scant TBS cornstarch (as needed)

4 cups kale, julienned for serving (optional)

Cooked couscous or wild rice mixture for serving (optional)

For the Chicken

• Combine the spice rub ingredients and rub the mixture over both sides of the chicken. Set aside for 10-15 minutes while you assemble and chop the remaining ingredients. 
• Heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Sear the thighs on both sides until lightly browned, about 5-6 minutes total. Remove to a plate; set aside.
• Remove all but a tablespoon of fat from the skillet; add the onion and garlic and cook for a minute or two until the onion softens. Add the chicken broth. Place the thighs back in the skillet, presentation side up; cover and cook over medium-low heat until chicken is no longer pink, about 30 minutes.

To Finish

• Line a serving bowl or rimmed platter with the julienned kale (if using). Place the cooked thighs on the kale and hold in a warm oven (or cover with foil to keep warm) while finishing the sauce.
• Stir in the lemon juice, capers and olives. Bring to a boil, uncovered, over medium-high heat, and reduce to thicken slightly and concentrate the cooking liquid. (Add a slurry of cornstarch dissolved in cold water as needed to thicken sauce if desired.)
• Pour the sauce over and around the chicken and serve accompanied with flavorful couscous or herbed rice. 

Skillet Pasta with Smokey Pork and Tomatoes

Spring sunshine and cool temperatures called for sweaters and a brisk pace on today's late morning walk. We set out to investigate the sound of chainsaws, near enough to be easily audible indoors. Several lots uphill we found a tree-felling crew taking down four tall evergreens, twelve to sixteen inches or more in diameter. Rumor has it another neighbor purchased the "view rights" on two adjacent properties and cleared the trees to improve their lake view. You can buy view rights? forever? We shook our heads and walked on, lamenting the continuing loss of tall timber in the neighborhood.

Hunger pangs struck as soon as we returned and I quickly gathered miscellaneous ingredients from fridge and pantry. Pork, tomatoes, onions, parsley, Parmesan and pasta soon surrounded the cooktop. Smoked pork bones pack a hefty flavor punch; too smoke-heavy and salty to use "as is". Their smokey saltiness can be overwhelming so I tame them with a preboil and soak ahead of use. Luckily I had cooked them earlier today. Pork, pasta and those few vegetables came together with a simple sauce for a quick and tasty lunch. Fresh fruit for dessert provided a sweet finish... and then I was finished. Surely a little Spring stroll justifies a little afternoon nap.

Skillet Pasta with Smokey Pork and Tomatoes

1 package smoked pork neck bones (1+ lbs)
4 fat handfuls cavatappi pasta (enough for 2 servings)
1 cup white or yellow onion, rough chopped
1 TBS anchovy paste
2 cloves garlic, minced (or use garlic powder)
1 tsp red pepper flakes
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup grape or cherry tomatoes, halves
1/2 cup fresh Parmesan cheese, shreds
1/4 cup Italian parsley, rough chopped  

Place smoked pork neck bones in a deep pot and cover with water. Bring water to a boil over high heat; lower the heat, cover and cook at a low simmer for an hour. Leave the pork and liquid in the pot and cool to room temperature. Discard the cooking water, pull the meat from the bones and shred, removing pockets of fat, and set aside. 

Cook the pasta until just tender, it will soften a bit more as it finishes in the skillet. While the pasta is cooking, prepare the sauce. 

Heat the olive oil in a wide skillet and saute the diced onion over medium high heat until softened. Add the anchovy paste and stir to incorporate. Add the garlic, red pepper flakes, black pepper, tomato halves and cooked pork; cover and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, to heat through (and the tomatoes soften).

Stir in 1/4-cup of the hot pasta water and add the drained, cooked pasta, half of the Parmesan cheese and all of the parsley; toss to mix (adding more olive oil and pasta water as needed). 

Top with the remaining Parmesan cheese and serve.
   

Chicken with Fennel and Oranges

The classic Spanish/Moroccan/Sicilian combination of oranges and fennel contributes mightily to brightening up the monotone gray days of winter. No, it can't add blue skies and sunshine, but oranges add color and a bright citrusy flavor, while aromatic fennel provides texture and a mild licoricey note. Add some sweet, anise-flavored Pernod and oh my! there's something special happening here.  

Fennel and citrus play nicely together, but while we enjoy them both separately, I don't often think to pair them. I have served oranges and fennel together in an Orange, Fennel and Olive Salad, 

or occasionally afloat as a stovetop preparation for freshly-caught Halibut Sicilian Style. 

Then a colorful Pinterest photo brought me to a recipe for this chicken dish. Lucky me! it's a winner straight from the oven, then later in the week shredded in a rice bowl and finally diced in a stovetop hash.  

  

Spring seems ever so far over the horizon, some big page flips of the calendar away, but meanwhile this entree will brighten up Seattle's occasional gray wintery days.  

Oven-Roasted Orange Chicken with Fennel

inspired by a Pinterest link from Foolproof Living, who adapted a recipe from Ottolenghi's Jerusalem.

Marinade:

1/3 cup Pernod

4 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons orange juice (I used an orange mango mix)

3 tablespoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons grainy mustard (I used smooth Dijon)

3 tablespoons brown sugar

2 teaspoons salt

1 1/2 teaspoons black pepper

2 1/2 lb. chicken thighs

2 fennel bulbs; washed, cored and cut into fat wedges

3 oranges or 6 clementines, sliced into thin rounds

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried fennel seeds

bouquet of fennel fronds for garnish

For the Marinade:

Mix Pernod, olive oil, orange juice, lemon juice, mustard, brown sugar, salt and pepper in a large ziplok bag.

Dry the chicken thighs with paper towel. Place chicken thighs, fennel wedges, orange slices, thyme, and fennel seeds into the bag of marinade; toss to coat. Refrigerate and let it marinade at least for 2 hours or overnight.

To Cook:

Pre-heat the oven to 475 F Degrees. 

Place the chicken thighs, presentation side up, in a single layer, into a large ovenproof glass pan. Arrange the fennel wedges and orange slices over and around the chicken thighs. Pour the marinade over all. Cook, uncovered, in the preheated 475 F oven until juices run clear, about 45 minutes.

Use a slotted spoon and move the chicken thighs, fennel wedges, and orange slices onto a warmed serving plate. Cover and keep warm; set aside.

Pour the juices into a small wide skillet or pan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat and simmer until somewhat thickened and reduced to 1/2 cup.

To Serve:

Place a serving of rice on each serving plate, top with chicken and drizzle some sauce over the top. Garnish with fennel fronds and serve.

Enjoy.

Or... serve on the warmed platter with a pitcher of sauce on the side. Wild rice pilaf makes a tasty accompaniment.

Hummus With Lamb and Pine Nuts

Just one bite of creamy, lemony hummus, warmed and topped with fragrant, flavorful lamb offers up a taste that whispers 'comfort food' in any language. Add some warm pita bread for scooping and you have an awesome appetizer or supper option. There are many more complicated recipes for Hummus and Lamb Kwarma available online (David Lebovitz posted this one recently), but I adapted a simple version found in a favorite Middle Eastern cookbook, An Edible Mosaic by Faith Gorsky. Faith's recipes reflect Syrian family recipes and a wealth of eating experiences in the Middle East, translating it for home cooks everywhere. My pantry held all of the required ingredients, ordinary items, but the combination was deliciously unique.  

Use your favorite hummus recipe if you like, but try it warmed and topped with this crunchy, spicy ground lamb. The resulting dish might tempt you to play with the seasonings and toppings to suit your own taste. Mmmmmm, with some added lemon zest and flat-leaf parsley, maybe a splash or two of harissa, this dish will definitely make more appearances in my kitchen and galley.

Hummus with Lamb and Pine Nuts

For the Hummus:

1 large can chickpeas (2-1/2 cups), drained & liquid reserved

1/4 cup tahini, well stirred

4 Tbs fresh lemon juice (add more to taste)

2 large cloves garlic, minced or crushed (more to taste)

2 Tbs olive oil

4-8 Tbs chickpea liquid, more or less as needed

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp smoky paprika

salt and white pepper to taste (optional)

1. Prepare & set aside, ready to warm in the microwave before use.
2. Use a food processor to puree the chickpeas, tahini paste, lemon juice, garlic, olive oil and a few tablespoons of the cooking liquid. Aim for a medium-thick spread, adding more or less liquid one tablespoon at a time as required. 
3. Stir in the cumin, paprika, salt and white pepper. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed. 

For the lamb:

2 Tbs olive oil

1 small onion, finely diced

8-oz lean ground lamb

1/4 tsp salt

1/8 tsp ground cinnamon

1/4 tsp ground allspice 

1/4 tsp ground clove

1/4 tsp ground nutmeg

1/4 tsp sumac (or za'atar)

Sprinkle of red pepper flakes (optional)

Several grinds of black peppercorns

2 Tbs toasted pine nuts (plus more for optional topping)

1. Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat; add the onion and sauté until it begins to soften, about 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. Add the ground lamb, salt, spices and pepper. Raise the heat to high; cook until meat is fully browned and the onion is tender, about 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. 
3. Stir in the pine nuts and cook 2 minutes more, stirring occasionally. 

To serve:

Warm the prepared hummus in the microwave; spoon onto a platter or bowl. Use the spoon to create a slight depression in the middle of the hummus. Pour the lamb on top of the warmed hummus. Sprinkle with more pine nuts, if desired, and serve with warmed pita bread wedges for scooping.

Note: hummus and spiced lamb can be prepared ahead and held in the refrigerator for several days. Warm each before serving.

Soba Noodle Salad with Chicken and Vegetables

Buckwheat soba noodles plus chicken and assorted vegetables equals a whole-meal salad with an abundance of tastes and textures. Yum!

A new medication has radically changed my tastebuds, making cooking and meal planning a whole new adventure. Citrus bites, too harshly acidic. Shrimp tastes metallic and no longer pleases. My favorite chile peppers and sriracha sauce now burn my mouth. Even coffee seems too bitter to enjoy. Aaaargh! So I'm playing with different spices, fearlessly swapping out ingredients in recipes old and new, and occasionally have to resort to a bowl of cereal for dinner when the new approach does not work. RL  hasn't complained yet, so the process continues. What a perfect time to work my way through my new Patricia Wells cookbook, Salad as a Meal: fresh ingredients, healthy eating, and an opportunity to tailor a new recipe to my taste.

I skimmed the chapters, glanced at the index and found many tempting choices. Buckwheat soba noodles and chicken sounded interesting, so I began with my own version of Wells' "Chicken and Soba Noodles with Ginger-Peanut Sauce". Swapping peanut sauce for peanut butter and adding 3 cups of chopped raw vegetables were the major changes. Cilantro has now joined parsley on my new list of Not-So-Good herbs, so I will omit it in the future.

 Visually interesting, this colorful Asian noodle dish rated two thumbs up today at lunch. The sauce pleasantly surprised my tastebuds with layers of flavor; sweet, sour, salty, faintly bitter and perhaps even a hint of umami (savory/meaty) as well. Smooth buckwheat noodles contrasted nicely with the assorted vegetables and peanuts for crunchy, toothsome bites, and it all came together quickly with ingredients already on hand. Win! It might even be healthy, but today it was all about the taste.

Half a package of noodles filled two bowls at lunch with enough left for another meal, or to use as filling for Asian pancakes or Thai spring rolls.

Slivered chicken, cilantro, onion, red pepper, cucumber, and cabbage are ready to go.  

4-minute noodles plus vegetables and an Asian sauce 

One lunch noodle bowl and a platter of leftovers to enjoy a another meal.

Soba Noodle Salad with Chicken & Vegetables

Adapted from Salad as a Meal by Patricia Wells

yields about 4 servings

Sauce:

6 Tbs tamari or other Japanese soy sauce

2 Tbs sesame oil

1 Tbs sweet Thai peanut sauce (optional)

4 Tbs seasoned Japanese rice vinegar

1 Tbs grated fresh ginger (or Gourmet Gardens ginger in a tube)

1 Tbs Gourmet Gardens lemongrass (optional)

2 cloves garlic, peeled & pressed or minced

1+ Tbs mirin (optional)

1 Tbs lime juice, more if needed as a finish

6-oz soba noodles (about ½ a package for me)

1 cup shredded cooked chicken (about 4 small thighs)

3 fat scallions, green and white parts, sliced thin

2-3 cups sliced raw vegetables of your choice (cabbage, carrots, cucumber, peppers, etc.)

2 Tbs toasted sesame seeds, white or black

handful of salted peanuts, chopped

handful of fresh cilantro leaves 

1. Whisk together the sauce ingredients; taste and adjust as needed (RL added lime juice to his bowl). Place in a large, shallow bowl and set aside.
2. Add the soba noodles to a large pot of salted, boiling water; stir to prevent noodles from sticking. Cook according to the package directions until tender, about 4 minutes – keep an eye on the pot and adjust heat to avoid foaming and boiling over! Drain in a colander, then rinse thoroughly until the water runs clear. Rinsing is important, keeping the noodles from sticking and clumping. Drain thoroughly.
3. Add the drained noodles to the bowl containing the sauce. Toss to coat evenly and thoroughly. Add the chicken, scallions and sliced raw vegetables; toss to mix and distribute the sauce.
4. Garnish with the sesame seeds, peanuts and cilantro. 

Notes: 

1. Any leftovers will incorporate well into an Asian pancake/omelet or make a great filling for rice paper spring rolls.

2. Serve with lime wedges for an added pop of flavor.

Update: June 9, 2016
Spring rolls are the way to go with leftovers. The Asian omelet was edible, but nothing to get excited about.

Roasted Butterflied Chicken a la Jacques Pepin

Winner, winner, chicken dinner!

It seems that everyone has an opinion regarding the best way to roast a chicken - whether grandma's method, a favorite chef or restaurant's technique, brined or not, trussed or spatchcocked flat, beercan or trivet held... The variations are endless. I've tried many different methods with varying degrees of success, but my current favorite is Jacques Pepin's "Broiled and Split Roasted Chicken." This preparation takes a little over an hour and yields great flavor, rich color and beautifully crunchy skin with an accompanying pan sauce that is scrumptious. I may never roast a chicken any other way. Of course I'll experiment a bit with the spice mix, you know I can't resist, but it's the broil-and-roast method that is the new winner.

Don't be put off by the seemingly long list of ingredients and directions. This recipe is simple to prepare and the results more than make up for any fiddly work removing the backbone with kitchen shears. Do make the pan sauce, it adds a welcome spicy flavor pop to each bite of chicken. Give this recipe a try and you too might think it's the best chicken ever! 

Jacques's Split Roasted Chicken

adapted slightly from Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home (1999)

A 5-pound roasting chicken, butterflied
1 Tbs melted butter

Spice Mix
1 tsp mustard seed
1/2 tsp dried lavender
1/2 tsp dried thyme
1/2 tsp dried rosemary
1/2 tsp dried mint leaves
1/2 tsp paprika
1/8 tsp cayenne
1 tsp salt

Deglazing Sauce
2 Tbs minced shallots or spring onions
1/3 cup dry white wine
1 cup chicken stock
1 Tbs unsalted butter

1. Butterfly the chicken (remove backbone, chop off tips of wings, crack/flatten the breastbone).
2. Place the spices and salt in a grinder and process into a coarse powder. Set the spice mix aside.
3. Brush both sides of the chicken with melted butter; place skin side down in a large, shallow-rimmed roasting pan. Place the pan on an oven rack adjusted so the chicken is about 6 inches from the heat. Broil for 10 minutes or until the flesh is lightly browned. Remove from the oven and set the oven temperature to 400 F.
4. Sprinkle about 1/4 of the spice mix over the broiled underside of the chicken. Flip it over, breast side up, and arrange it to lay flat in the pan. Sprinkle the remaining spice mix evenly over the skin. 
5. Place the pan in the center of the oven and roast for 1 hour or until done, basting several times with the pan juices. Check for doneness with a meat thermometer (165 f) or by piercing the thigh (looking for the juices to run clear yellow with no trace of pink). The skin should be crispy and colored deep mahogany. 
6. Transfer the chicken to a platter and let rest in a warm oven for 10 minutes while you make the sauce. 
7. Spoon off all but a tablespoon or two of fat. Place the roasting pan over two burners set to medium heat; add the shallots and cook until they sizzle. Pour in the wine and stock and heat rapidly to simmering, scraping up all of the glazed brown bits in the bottom of the pan. Taste and adjust seasoning. Add more wine or stock and/or boil it down to thicken a bit. Whisk in the butter just before serving for a richer finish.
8. To carve, slice the chicken straight down the middle to the breast bone; slice 2 thick 3/4-inch vertical slabs of breast meat from the inside of each breast half. Serve the two outside pieces of breast with wing attached. Separate legs from breast; cut drumsticks away from thighs, then cut thighs in two. 
9. Arrange the 12 pieces on a serving platter and drizzle some pan sauce over all. Serve, offering more sauce on the side.