Moroccan Chicken with Lemon, Green Olives & Capers

Chicken thighs, massaged with a Moroccan medley of spices, browned in a splash of oil and nestled in a pool of broth for stovetop braising yield a flavorful, succulent entree. Top the dish with a tangy lemony sauce and shazam! this becomes another weeknight favorite. It won't win top honors for beauty, but with some creative plating it might appear at a company dinner or two in the future.

When rushed for time I've prepared this in the pressure cooker, but feel more in control of the results with stovetop braising. Either way, Moroccan Chicken is a surprisingly tasty dinner item; much more than the sum of its parts. What more could you ask of the ubiquitous chicken thigh?

Photo: Braised chicken thighs on a bed of raw kale

Photo: Braised chicken thighs with lemon, olive & caper sauce

Moroccan Chicken

serves 2-4

Moroccan Spice Rub

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp ground cumin

1/2 tsp ground ginger

1/4 tsp ground coriander

1/4 tsp cinnamon

1/4 tsp red pepper flakes

4 large chicken thighs, bone-in & skin-on
1 TBS olive oil

1/2 cup onion, finely chopped

2 TBS minced or mashed garlic cloves

1 cup low-sodium chicken broth

1/4 cup lemon juice

1 heaping TBS capers

1/2 cup pimento-stuffed green olives, chopped in large chunks

1 scant TBS cornstarch (as needed)

4 cups kale, julienned for serving (optional)

Cooked couscous or wild rice mixture for serving (optional)

For the Chicken

• Combine the spice rub ingredients and rub the mixture over both sides of the chicken. Set aside for 10-15 minutes while you assemble and chop the remaining ingredients. 
• Heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Sear the thighs on both sides until lightly browned, about 5-6 minutes total. Remove to a plate; set aside.
• Remove all but a tablespoon of fat from the skillet; add the onion and garlic and cook for a minute or two until the onion softens. Add the chicken broth. Place the thighs back in the skillet, presentation side up; cover and cook over medium-low heat until chicken is no longer pink, about 30 minutes.

To Finish

• Line a serving bowl or rimmed platter with the julienned kale (if using). Place the cooked thighs on the kale and hold in a warm oven (or cover with foil to keep warm) while finishing the sauce.
• Stir in the lemon juice, capers and olives. Bring to a boil, uncovered, over medium-high heat, and reduce to thicken slightly and concentrate the cooking liquid. (Add a slurry of cornstarch dissolved in cold water as needed to thicken sauce if desired.)
• Pour the sauce over and around the chicken and serve accompanied with flavorful couscous or herbed rice. 

Hummus With Lamb and Pine Nuts

Just one bite of creamy, lemony hummus, warmed and topped with fragrant, flavorful lamb offers up a taste that whispers 'comfort food' in any language. Add some warm pita bread for scooping and you have an awesome appetizer or supper option. There are many more complicated recipes for Hummus and Lamb Kwarma available online (David Lebovitz posted this one recently), but I adapted a simple version found in a favorite Middle Eastern cookbook, An Edible Mosaic by Faith Gorsky. Faith's recipes reflect Syrian family recipes and a wealth of eating experiences in the Middle East, translating it for home cooks everywhere. My pantry held all of the required ingredients, ordinary items, but the combination was deliciously unique.  

Use your favorite hummus recipe if you like, but try it warmed and topped with this crunchy, spicy ground lamb. The resulting dish might tempt you to play with the seasonings and toppings to suit your own taste. Mmmmmm, with some added lemon zest and flat-leaf parsley, maybe a splash or two of harissa, this dish will definitely make more appearances in my kitchen and galley.

Hummus with Lamb and Pine Nuts

For the Hummus:

1 large can chickpeas (2-1/2 cups), drained & liquid reserved

1/4 cup tahini, well stirred

4 Tbs fresh lemon juice (add more to taste)

2 large cloves garlic, minced or crushed (more to taste)

2 Tbs olive oil

4-8 Tbs chickpea liquid, more or less as needed

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp smoky paprika

salt and white pepper to taste (optional)

1. Prepare & set aside, ready to warm in the microwave before use.
2. Use a food processor to puree the chickpeas, tahini paste, lemon juice, garlic, olive oil and a few tablespoons of the cooking liquid. Aim for a medium-thick spread, adding more or less liquid one tablespoon at a time as required. 
3. Stir in the cumin, paprika, salt and white pepper. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed. 

For the lamb:

2 Tbs olive oil

1 small onion, finely diced

8-oz lean ground lamb

1/4 tsp salt

1/8 tsp ground cinnamon

1/4 tsp ground allspice 

1/4 tsp ground clove

1/4 tsp ground nutmeg

1/4 tsp sumac (or za'atar)

Sprinkle of red pepper flakes (optional)

Several grinds of black peppercorns

2 Tbs toasted pine nuts (plus more for optional topping)

1. Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat; add the onion and sauté until it begins to soften, about 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. Add the ground lamb, salt, spices and pepper. Raise the heat to high; cook until meat is fully browned and the onion is tender, about 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. 
3. Stir in the pine nuts and cook 2 minutes more, stirring occasionally. 

To serve:

Warm the prepared hummus in the microwave; spoon onto a platter or bowl. Use the spoon to create a slight depression in the middle of the hummus. Pour the lamb on top of the warmed hummus. Sprinkle with more pine nuts, if desired, and serve with warmed pita bread wedges for scooping.

Note: hummus and spiced lamb can be prepared ahead and held in the refrigerator for several days. Warm each before serving.

Chicken Shawarma in the Oven

I enjoy Middle Eastern food, but have limited experience in preparing it. My repertoire to date has been limited to hummus, stuffed grape leaves, lamb kofta, fattoush salad, pita bread (minus the pumpkin porter experiment), tabouli, couscous and more: all simple items that only hint at the depth of flavors traditional to so much Middle Eastern fare. It's definitely time to expand my cooking horizons, so why not start with a favorite street vendor item, Shawarma. Every visit to the Pier Street Sunday Market in Campbell River, B.C. includes a visit to the Baba Gannouj food cart for a beef shawarma pita half. That sandwich filled with shaved, marinated and roasted meat is Delicious with a capital D.   

Photo: Food cart Beef Shawarma at Pier Street Sunday Market in Campbell River, B.C. 

Lacking a vertical rotisserie, I needed another approach and found two terrific resources. Faith Gorsky's cookbook and blog "An Edible Mosaic", and a recent Cooking:NYT post encouraged me to try Chicken Shawarma in the Oven. Good decision! the meat was well-flavored and delicious as an entree on day one, reheated well for lunch on day two, and on day three made an amazing shredded chicken pita filling.

It was a simple, quick process, though overnight marination was the key to well-flavored chicken thighs. A large ziploc bag made easy work of mixing the marinade and it stored easily in my always-packed fridge. Note to self: Remember to turn the bag several times to redistribute this messy, colorful marinade.   

Just before cooking, toss in the onion quarters to coat. Use kitchen tongs to avoid staining your fingers and arrange the thighs and onions in a single layer on a foil-lined sheet pan. Roast in the preheated oven until the chicken is no longer pink in the middle, turning occasionally. Optional finish: saute quickly in a tablepoon of oil in a hot skillet on the stovetop to further crisp up the edges.

Slice. Serve with an assorted accompaniments. Enjoy! This is Middle Eastern street food that translates well into kitchen fare... though I'll still order it whenever I visit the Baba Gannouj food truck.

Oven-Roasted Chicken Shawarma

Based on a Cooking:NYT online recipe (link), with additional inpiration from blogger Faith at An Edible Mosaic

INGREDIENTS 

2 lemons, juiced
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil
6 cloves garlic, peeled, smashed and minced 

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Shawarma Spice Mix
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground sweet paprika
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/4 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper, to taste (optional) 

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1 large onion, peeled and quartered (2 or 3 recommended)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. PROCEDURE
2. Marinate the chicken: 
3. In a large bowl, combine the lemon juice, 1/2 cup olive oil, garlic, salt and Shawarma Spice Mix, then whisk to combine. (OR, put the marinade ingredients into a large ziploc bag and massage to combine.) 
4. Add the chicken and coat well. Cover and store in refrigerator for at least 1 hour and up to 12 hours.
5. To cook:
6. Heat oven to 425 degrees. Use the remaining tablespoon of olive oil to grease a rimmed sheet pan (OR line the pan with aluminum foil for easy cleanup.) Add the quartered onion to the chicken and marinade; toss gently to combine. Remove the chicken and onion from the marinade, and place on the pan, spreading everything evenly across it in a single layer.
7. Put the chicken in the preheated oven and roast until it is cooked through, browned and crisp at the edges, about 30 minutes, rotating the pan and turning the chicken at least once (less time if you use boneless, skinless breast pieces). Cook until the interior is no longer pink. Remove from the oven, allow to rest 2 minutes, then slice into bits. (For crispier chicken, use a large pan and saute in a tablepoon of olive oil over high heat until golden brown with crisp edges.) 
8. Scatter the parsley over the top and serve with chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, chickpeas, pita, tzatziki or garlic mayonnaise, hot sauce, olives, feta, rice... or whatever sounds tempting.
9. 
   

Lamb Kofta with Yogurt Sauce

Call it kebab, kabob, kofta, brochette or satay, "food on a stick is just plain fun." I read that somewhere, probably online, and can't help but agree. Today's lamb kofta on a roll might have would have tasted the same if prepared as a flat lamb slider on a burger bun, but the skewer and grilling approach added an indescribable special something to the end result. 

The succulent, tender lamb available today is a much improved product over the disagreeable, strong-tasting, tough-chewing meat (mutton?) of my childhood memories. Now I love sizzling lamb chops, herb-crusted rack of lamb, butterflied and grilled leg of lamb, well-seasoned lamb burgers... and spicy lamb kabobs. 

I don't spend too many moments thinking about the U.S. meat industry in general, but did page through the American Lamb Council's website. Here are a few fast facts about our American lamb:

• There are over 82,000 sheep operations in the U.S. and a majority are family owned.
• The top 5 sheep producing states are Texas, California, Colorado, Wyoming and South Dakota, though sheep are produced in nearly every state.
• 80% of U.S. sheep are raised for meat, with wool being a byproduct.
• A 3-oz serving of lamb has only 175 calories, meeting the FDA's definition for lean meat.
• In addition to protein, lamb is an excellent source of vitamin B12, niacin, zinc, selenium, iron and riboflavin. 

Interesting factoids, and it surprised me to think of lamb as a lean meat, but really it's all about flavor.  Today's lightly-spiced lamb kofta were delicious... food on a stick that was just plain fun. 

Lamb Kofta

Yields 8 kofta or 4 skewers

1 pound ground lamb

2 heaping tablespoons fresh mint, minced
2 heaping tablespoons Italian parsley, minced

2 teaspoons garlic paste

3 tablespoons grated onion

1 tablespoon pimenton (smoky Spanish paprika)

1 scant teaspoon ground chili pepper (ancho or cayenne)

1 tablespoon ground cumin

2 tablespoons za’atar (or sumac plus thyme)

1 tablespoon capers, drained & rinsed

Kosher salt & freshly ground pepper

Yogurt sauce (recipe below)

1. You will need a grill or cast iron grill pan and 4 long metal skewers.
2. Mix the ingredients thoroughly by hand. Divide into 8 equal portions. With damp hands shape each portion of meat into a smallish cylinder. Slide two meat rolls onto a metal skewer, not touching but separated from each other, and set aside; repeat with remaining meat and skewers.
3. Heat a ridged, cast iron grill pan over medium heat. Brush the pan lightly with olive oil.
4. Grill the skewered meat, turning frequently, until a golden brown crust develops and the meat is still slightly pink but cooked nearly through. Careful, don’t overcook the lamb!
5. Remove the kofte from the skewers and serve with warmed flatbread, pita or buns. Offer bowls of shredded greens and herbs, plus yogurt sauce on the side.

Yogurt Sauce:

2 cups plain Greek yogurt

1 teaspoon garlic paste

1 tablespoon fresh mint, minced

1 tablespoon Italian parsley, minced

1 teaspoon lemon juice

grated lemon zest

2 green onions, finely sliced

Pinch of salt

Stir all of the sauce ingredients together, mixing thoroughly. Refrigerate for an hour before serving.

Stuffed Grape Leaves

SRC: March 2013

Stuffed grape leaves, oh yes, please! Dozens of those plump, glistening little rolls covered the counters, piled high on a platter and spilled over onto the tabletop as I played with several recipe variations. This renewed interest in filled grape leaves began with Faith Gorsky's terrific new cookbook, An Edible Mosaic, a treasury of her Syrian family-inspired recipes. Vegetarian Stuffed Grape Leaves was the first recipe she selected for her cookbook: that fact alone makes them special. 

My Secret Recipe Club blog assignment this month was Sid's Sea Palm Cooking. Each month it's a new blog to explore, new recipes to investigate, and I happily browsed through Sid's ample archives. I checked out some tempting sweets (including a two-part post on making your own puff pastry!), dozens of Danish specialties, a host of Mexican-inspired dishes, and then... listed under Cooking with Friends... I found it! Sid's Sea Palm recipe for Syrian-style Stuffed Grape Leaves. I knew this had to be my focus for March. Sid, I'll come back later to see what's cooking on your monthly Tapas Nights and Boat Club Potluck posts.

I prepared two filling variations, one vegetarian and and the other meaty with a ground lamb sausage. After gathering the ingredients and spices noted in Faith's and Sids recipes, I skimmed Joanne Weir's From Tapas to Meze for a little more flavor research. In the end I selected a blend of seasonings we love and that were available in my galley. Soon I was busy mixing and rolling, having fun and up to my elbows in stuffed grape leaves and rice filling. 

Forming the rolls was easy enough; it's similar to wrapping up a burrito or a Spring roll. Add a dab of filling to the bottom third of a grape leaf just above the stem and shape the mixture into a cylinder; fold in each side and  roll up firmly (but not too firmly or they'll burst as the rice expands) toward the top point. Stack the rolled leaves seam side down in layers in a heavy-bottomed pot. Weight down the top with a heavy plate or lid to keep the rolls firmly in place or they will float and unwrap. Cover with water, add a drizzle of oil and some lemon juice and simmer slowly until the rice is cooked.

The rice-only vegetarian grape leaves were a treat, served cold as an appetizer, accompanied with a bowl of tzatziki and a few lemon wedges. We enjoyed the meat-stuffed grape leaves at dinner, served warm with grilled lamb sausages, lemony roasted potatoes, Fattoush, and a bit of Wild Rice Salad. 

This recipe for meat-filled rolls makes three dozen stuffed grape leaves, enough to feed a crowd. 

Syrian Stuffed Grape Leaves

Inspired by a recipe from Sid's Sea Palm Cooking
makes roughly  2 1/2 to 3 dozen

3/4 cup raw medium-grain rice

2 Tbs oil

½ large yellow onion (or 1 bunch scallions) in small dice

1 tsp garlic powder

½ tsp cinnamon

¼ tsp cumin

¼ tsp nutmeg

¼ tsp ground coriander

¼ tsp turmeric

salt and black pepper to taste (optional)

½ pound ground meat (from 2 links raw of lamb/pork sausage) optional

a generous Tablespoon of dried mint leaves

¼ cup dried currants, soaked in white wine

¼ cup pine nuts

1 Tbs rinsed capers

2 Tbs flat-leaf parsley, chopped

2 Tbs fresh mint, chopped

1 8-oz jar of grape leaves, rinsed well

¼ cup lemon juice

Yogurt or tzatziki and lemon wedges (optional, for serving)

Directions:

1. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Saute the onion for a few minutes until soft. Add the spices, cinnamon through turmeric and a generous pinch of salt and pepper and cook until fragrant. Cool completely.
2. Add the onion mixture and crumbled ground meat to a bowl with the rice. Toss in the next 6 ingredients, dried mint through fresh mint and combine everything thoroughly. Add more salt and pepper to the mix (optional).
3. To prepare the jarred grape leaves, soak them in a pot of gently boiling water for 1 minute. Remove and transfer to a pot of chilled water. Do this at least once to remove the excel salt and processing chemicals from the leaves. Drain, pat dry and trim off any extra-long stems if needed.
4. Lay a leaf out flat, shiny side down and ribbed vein side up, and place approximately one tablespoon of filling at the base of the stem. (Adjust the quantity of filling to the size of the grape leaf.) Shape the filling into a cylinder and proceed to fold and roll as you would a burrito or a spring roll: fold the bottom up over the filling, fold the sides in to cover, and roll up the leaf, tucking the edges in as you go. Roll into tight rolls, but not too tight or they will burst as the rice expands during cooking. Repeat with the remaining filling and leaves.
5. Arrange layers of stuffed leaves packed close together, seam-sides down, in a medium-large, heavy-bottomed lidded pot. Place a heavy heat-proof plate on top of the leaves to hold them down while they cook. Add water to cover by about 2 inches; add 1/4 cup lemon juice and a splash of oil. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover and simmer at a low bubble for an hour, or until the rice is cooked through. Let the pot sit awhile, off the heat, for the rice to absorb more liquid.
6. To serve, drain the stuffed leaves in a colander, *but you might save the liquid in a bowl underneath. Accompany with plain Greek yogurt or tzatziki and some lemon wedges.
7. Store any leftover stuffed grape leaves in the refrigerator. *One source recommends storing them in the reserved cooking liquid to keep the rice moist. 

Fattoush Salad

Greek salad? no, it's my version of Fattoush. 

Photo: Fattoush salad with a dollop of hummus and extra pita chips

We typically eat a lot of salads whenever we're in town during late summer and autumn months, reveling in the luscious flavors of seasonal, local tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and herbs. Meal after meal we enjoy Greek salad, panzanella (bread salad), caprese salad, roasted pepper salad... oh, the list goes on!  But lately I can't get enough of a Middle Eastern salad, fattoush. This dish, resembling a loaded Greek salad with seasoned and toasted pita chunks, features the sour tang of a sumac-based seasoning za'atar. If you haven't encountered za'atar or sumac before, you owe yourself a taste sampling.

Sumac is the main ingredient in the spice blend zatar, or za'atar. (link) As you can see from the labels, I buy my sumac from Penzeys Spices. They have an online store and a widespread network of brick-and-mortar retail stores. Penzey's Seattle store has been open for over a year, but it seems easier for me to order online and not have to battle downtown traffic and the related parking challenge. Following many months afloat each year I tend to postpone the re-entry experience of busy city traffic for as long as possible. Steep hills, one-way streets, traffic cameras, crowds of pedestrians that dart about everywhere outside of crosswalks - stop! back to the food.

I no longer buy the za'atar separately but order larger quantities of ground sumac and mix up my own blend. There are any number of recipes available online, try a Google search and check it out. It's fun to tweak each new batch a little, adjusting ingredients or proportions to change up the flavor. How do you use this blend? RL loves za'atar-seasoned pita chips to use as handy hummus scoops. 

Za'atar also works well as a dry rub, adding its distinctive sour tang to roasted chicken or lamb. Use it to flavor lamburgers or meatloaf, even roasted vegetables. Just don't forget to try za'atar in this delicious fattoush salad.

Fattoush

For the Salad:

1 head romaine, cut or torn into bite-sized strips

red onion, sliced into thin half-moons (&/or green onion rings)

ripe tomatoes of any size, beefsteak to grape tomatoes, chunked

seedless cucumber, bite-sized chunks

fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves only, torn

mint, cilantro, basil, oregano leaves (optional)

pita bread pieces, sprinkled with za'atar, toasted, 

Kalamata olives, seeded and halved (topping)

Feta cheese in chunks or crumbles (topping)

For the Dressing:

Use a 3:1 ratio of olive oil and red wine vinegar (or vinegar and lemon juice blend). 

Add salt, freshly ground pepper and za'atar to taste (start with a scant teaspoon of za'atar and adjust as desired). 

To Prepare:

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Assembling on a baking sheet, sprinkle the rough sides of split pita breads lightly with za'atar; bake until dry but not browned, 10-15 minutes. Remove from the oven to cool and cut or break apart into bite-sized pieces.
2. Use a small bowl and whisk together the dressing ingredients, adjusting seasonings to taste.
3. Use a large salad bowl or platter to combine the salad vegetables and fresh herbs. Add a small amount of the dressing and toss to coat. Add the romaine and a bit more dressing and toss to coat lightly. Just before serving add the pita pieces and more dressing, as rquired. You don't want soggy bread, but the pita should carry some vinaigrette.
4. Top with the kalamata olives and feta cheese, sprinkle a little more za'atar over all and enjoy.