Saturday, February 25, 2012

Butter-Brushed Soft Pretzels




It's such a soul-satisfying pleasure to indulge in soft, warm pretzels, fresh from the bakery. Mmmmm, what a treat, and how those coils of dough bring back wonderful pretzel-filled memories of a trip to Bavaria. I spent two weeks with friends who were working there, and I ate with enthusiasm the entire time, everywhere we went. I reveled in the opportunity to experience first-hand the food of my Bavarian roots, comparing each dish to Mom's or Grandma's version of the same. But the memory of warm pretzels, grainy mustard and a pilsner of cool beer also reminds me  you can enjoy comfort food and good company in any locale.


A neighborhood shop, Columbia City Bakery, offers fresh pretzels and pretzel knots every day, and I'm tempted more often than I care to admit. What's my excuse for not making my own soft pretzels very often? No excuse, they're easy and don't take long from start to finish. However, I think they're best eaten warm and fresh and there are only two of us to enjoy eight pretzels. That becomes an issue for the waistline. Now that I have pretzels on my mind, this could become a multi-batch week where I lure friends and neighbors in to enjoy an afternoon snack. Pretzels, mustard, cheeses, cured meats and pickles with beer - let's just call it happy hour or pre-supper event.


Pretzels rolled, dipped, salted and resting before baking


Butter-Brushed Soft Pretzels
Based on a recipe from King Arthur Flour Co., yields: 8 pretzels

Pretzel Dough
2 1/2 cups All-Purpose Flour 
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 package (2 1/4 teaspoons) regular instant yeast
about 1 cup warm water (aim for a soft dough)


Pretzel Topping
1/2 cup warm water
2 tablespoons baking soda
coarse, kosher or pretzel salt or sesame or mixed seeds
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

You can use a stand mixer or choose to work the dough by hand. Place all of the dough ingredients into a bowl, and beat till well-combined. Knead the dough, by hand or machine, for about 5 minutes, till it's soft, smooth, and doesn't bounce back when you poke it. Lightly flour the dough and place it in a plastic bag; let it rest for 30 minutes.

Preheat your oven to 500°F. Prepare two baking sheets by spraying them with vegetable oil spray, or lining them with a silpat or parchment paper.

Place the dough on a lightly greased work surface, and divide it into eight equal pieces. Allow the pieces to rest, uncovered, for 5 minutes. While the dough rests, mix the 1/2 cup warm water and the baking soda in a shallow bowl. (Be sure the baking soda is completely dissolved, it's important!)

Roll each piece of dough into a long, thin rope (2 to 2 1/2 feet long) and twist each rope into a pretzel, shape. Dip each pretzel in the baking soda wash to give the them a golden-brown color, and place them on the baking sheets. Sprinkle them lightly with a coarse salt or sesame or mixed seeds. Allow them to rest, uncovered, about 10 minutes.

Bake the pretzels for 8 to 9 minutes, or until golden brown. It helps to reverse the baking sheets halfway through.

Remove the pretzels from the oven, and brush them thoroughly with the melted butter. Keep brushing the butter on until you've used it all up. I know , I know, it seems like a lot of butter, but it makes all the difference to the taste. Trust me.  

Eat the pretzels warm, or reheat them in an oven or microwave. Store them uncovered, or in a paper bag (not sealed in plastic) if you have any left. Want to nibble on a smaller bite? you could aim for tiny pretzel knots, but pretzel holes or knobs (think donut holes)  are an easier solution. You might reduce the oven temp and cooking time a bit - experiment and keep an eye on them so they don't over brown.

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Korean Green-Onion Pancake

Part One:


Visions of pancakes distracted me on Tuesday. It was Shrove Tuesday, Pancake Tuesday, Pancake Day, Fat Tuesday, Fasching... the Tuesday ending Mardi Gras or Carnival. Historically pancakes were a way to use up a family's supply of rich ingredients like eggs and butter - items that were traditionally prohibited during Lenten fasting. 


But I ignored sweet western-style pancakes and focused instead on savory Asian pancakes. Blame the internet for my pancake distractions, tempting me with post after post after post that raved on about those tasty, aromatic delights. A google search for recipes had me clicking away for ages, mentally sampling each variation. Some resembled crepes while others were closer to my notion of thin, savory pancakes.


This Tuesday's pancake came from a David Lebovitz recipe, an adaptation based on ingredients available in my kitchen. His recipe was unusual by having an egg layer added separately from the pancake layer. More commonly Korean Scallion Pancake recipes called for adding eggs to the batter mixture. The two-layer method sounded intriguing, and I do love fried eggs.


This first attempt was more of a Korean puffy omelet instead of a thin, crispy pancake. Oops! It wasn't pretty, the kitchen smelled funny and my chief taste-tester would only try two bites. I was disappointed in the texture, frustrated by the two-layered approach, underwhelmed at the flavor and thankful I had not wasted any shrimp on my first try. This was not the pancake of my daydreams. Chalk it up to another learning experience. The Green Onion Pancake idea deserves another try; the Lebovitz recipe received many positive reviews from other cooks. 


If there is a round two with this particular recipe, I'll thin the batter some, use rice flour instead of AP flour, add fewer vegetables, skip the soy sauce or use it as a condiment rather than an ingredient, and either divide the same quantity of batter to make two pancakes or use a larger skillet. Then again, I might try a different approach (link). Sigh, I'll also have to find someone else to help me sample the results.


Scallions sizzle in an oiled skillet
Zucchini joins the party
Pancake batter sets up
Beaten egg tops the pancake


Korean Green-Onion Pancake
based on a David Lebovitz recipe, intended to make one 9" pancake

1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cold water
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 bunch of green onions, cut into thin, finger-long lengths
a large handful of shredded vegetables (optional)
chopped, cooked seafood (optional)
a drizzle of soy sauce (optional)
canola oil for the skillet
  1. Combine the flour, water and salt in a small bowl.
  2. Crack the egg into a small bowl and beat lightly with a fork.
  3. Add a tablespoon or two of oil to a non-stick skillet and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the onion pieces and cook until soft. If using soy sauce or other seasoning liquid add it to the pan now.
  4. Add any shredded veggies (like cabbage or zucchini, etc.) and seafood (perhaps sliced cooked shrimp or crab pieces); stir and toss briefly while they warm.
  5. Add the pancake batter to the pan, pouring it over the vegetable mix and tilting the pan like you would to spread omelet or crepe batter. Cook a few minutes until the bottom is golden brown.
  6. Pour the beaten egg over the top, again tilting and moving the skillet to spread it out. Cook until this egg layer begins to firm up around the perimeter.
  7. Flip the pancake with a very wide spatula or slide it out onto a plate and then flip it back into the pan. Cook for several more minutes until the egg is set to your liking. (Lebovitz recommended aiming for crispy edges.)
  8. Remove to a cutting board and cool to room temperature. Slice into pie-shaped wedges and serve with a dipping sauce.

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