Fish Taco Tasting Tour

Part One: Alki

What combination of flavors, textures and preparation makes for an awesome fish taco? Grilled or fried fish? Corn or flour tortilla? Creamy sauce, fresh salsa or both? Shredded lettuce or cabbage? Pickled onions or jalapeños?... the questions go on and on. H and I began our search for answers.

Memories of a Spring lunch at Marination Ma Kai (link) took us back to Seattle's Alki waterfront for Day One of our quest. We revisited Ma Kai to resample their fish taco and establish a baseline for comparison. Grilled white fish would be the standard.

First we sampled the fish. The marinade kept the perfectly-cooked cod moist but contributed little flavor. That was not a problem since the kimchi-flavored crema, pickled red onions, jalapeño rings and a few dashes of sriracha packed plenty of flavor into each subsequent bite. It was tempting to order another taco, but we had more stops to make.

We headed farther west along the waterfront. Drat! the food cart that we thought would be on location was missing. Out of business? Seasonal schedule issues? Whatever! we continued on.

Next we popped into a sit-down Mexican restaurant, happy to get out of the dreary drizzle outside. Hmmm, the atmosphere was dark, the seat-yourself joint was nearly empty and the menu noted their tacos held battered and fried fish. We quietly left without ordering, not that anyone really noticed or seemed to care. 

Finally we came to Cactus, a restaurant already familiar to both of us. Warmly welcomed by staff and then a cheery fireplace, we headed for a well-lit corner of the lounge. Torn between two fish taco choices on the menu we made the very practical decision to order both.

Omigosh, the fish alone was delicious - ceviche-like in preparation and bursting with flavor. Smokey chipotle cream sauce and red onions added contrasting notes for a perfect bite. The avocado slice was pretty, but superfluous - this taco did not require decoration. The brittle corn tortillas served a display function but shattered at the first bite. Oops! no problemo, we could handle this challenge. Undaunted we pressed the halves together and enjoyed our flat, fish taco crispy tortilla sandwiches anyway.    

There is no photo of the next menu descriptor, but the Taco Pescado featured grilled cod, coriander, pasilla slaw, mango (I think) pico de gallo and buttermilk crema on a corn tortilla.

The fish was moist, without a distinctive flavor of its own. Ah, but the toppings provided a lively, satisfying bite. Pasilla coleslaw and fresh salsa added crunch and pop to this taco. The flavor of the corn tortilla seemed more discernible, distracting a bit from the overall taste combination. 

So we give high marks to Ma Kai's marinade and kimichi-flavored crema, to Cactus' flavorful ahi, chipotle crema and pasilla coleslaw. Obviously we need to keep searching.

The food memory of a terrific fish taco at the Train Wreck Bar & Grill would draw me back to Burlington, but that's a long drive for a taco when we haven't begun to taste-test our way through Seattle yet. My favorite local hangout, the Columbia City Ale House, features a dynamite fish taco that is hard to resist, but it's breaded and grilled. We are focused on marinated and grilled this month. The search goes on. Do you have any suggestions for the team? We are committed to further research.

Breakfast Tacos

Doesn't that taco look like it's smiling? Really, a huge grin? I did need a smile this morning, even if was my breakfast giving me attitude. Some days are like that, and it's the little things that help. Forget the less-than-healthy aspect of smoky bacon, sriracha-flavored eggs, fried onions and peppers, pepper jack cheese and full-fat sour cream tucked into a flour tortilla. Instead, imagine the combined flavors of those ingredients bringing joy to your taste buds. Oh yes, I'll bet you're smiling too. 

I just wanted to share this morning's smile with you. Now I'm ready to attack the gigantic To Do List before the weekend. I hope your day goes well.     

Tomatillo Pork Tinga

aka Mexican Pulled Pork

Another south-of-the-border inspired dish. What is there about the bright, tangy, sour-citrusy taste of roasted tomatillos that gets me every time? I love how those flavors complement the smokey zing of chilies, so much so that I decided to replace the traditional sweet red tomatoes in this Pueblan dish with a handful of fresh green tomatillos. Mmmmm, good decision. It took tinga into a new level of flavor. It was still comfort food with shredded meat and potatoes in a spicy sauce, but oh! what a sauce.

A Rick Bayless recipe was my starting point, as is often the case with Mexican dishes. (My three Bayless cookbooks are splattered and stained from years of use, always a good sign for a cookbook.)  I think this tinga variation is a winner; homey, if not quite authentic, Pueblan cooking. A winner? Oh, yes! its a new favorite chili-like recipe that's terrific served in a bowl - or in a tortilla - or in so many other presentations. See below for several other tasty ideas and give tinga a try. I think you'll like it.

Tomatillo Pork Tinga

adapted from a Rick Bayless recipe in Mexican Everyday

Serves 6-8

Ingredients:

4-6 medium red-skin boiling potatoes, cut in ½” cubes

2 pounds pork shoulder, cut in steaks or in small chunks

3 fresh mild chilies (Anaheim or poblano), roasted & peeled

2 small jalapeños, roasted & deseeded

6-8 large fresh tomatillos, husked, rinsed and roasted

1 medium white onion, in ¼” slices

3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced or crushed through a press

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano

½ teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried cilantro

1 tablespoon ground chipotle powder (optional)

1 cup low-sodium chicken stock (more, as needed)

For serving:

corn tortillas, warmed

1 cup crumbled queso fresco or shredded jack cheese

small bunch fresh cilantro, chopped

avocado, pitted and chopped in small dice (optional)

Directions:

   1. Place the pork in the bottom of a good-sized heavy pot or Dutch oven, at least 4-quart with a 10 to 12 inch diameter. Scatter the potatoes on top of the meat.
   2. Roast the chilies and tomatillos until charred. Seed and peel the chilies (or not, if you’re after more heat). Toss the chilies and tomatillos into a blender (be sure to capture all of the juices as well as the flesh) and puree with a few pulses.

   3. Add the remaining 7 ingredients, onion through 1 cup chicken stock and pulse a time or two just to mix, not to puree the onions.
   4. Pour the mix evenly over the pork and potatoes, cover and cook in a 300 F oven for 2 to 2½ hours until the pork is completely tender. Add more chicken stock if the sauce becomes too thick (unlikely).

   5. Remove the pork steaks or chunks from the pot; use two forks or your fingers to break into smaller pieces or shreds.
   6. If there is a lot of liquid in the pot, ladle it out and boil rapidly until reduced and somewhat syrupy. Return the meat and the liquid back to the cooking pot and stir it all together. The meat will absorb some of that loose sauce. Taste and adjust seasonings as necessary (salt? hot sauce? green tabasco?)
   7. Serve with the warm tortillas, crumbled cheese and avocados for making soft tacos. Or serve in a bowl with toppings to enjoy like chili. Or use the mix to top a crispy tostada, stuff a burrito or enchilada, fill a torta or quesadilla or an omelet, or even top a baked potato or rice.

Notes:

• Some tinga recipes call for chorizo to be crumbled and fried, then added to the sauce at the end of cooking, just before serving. Other recipes use the rendered chorizo oils to sauté the onions at the beginning of the recipe. Either option sounds delicious.
• For a more carnitas-like treat, after step 5 fry the meat in a bit of oil until the edges crisp, then mix with the sauce and serve. 
• Use a slow-cooker to make this a fix-it-and-forget-it recipe: slow-cook on high for 6+ hours, and you can hold on the “keep warm” function for another 4 or more hours. This would be a useful game day feature when schedules are unpredictable.

Grilled Vegetable Tacos

A visit to a Farmers' Market is entertainment, a photo op, a dining event as well as a food shopping excursion. (link and link) One recent Saturday trip to the University District Farmers' Market was memorable for good company and my shopping bag filled with beautifully ripe peaches, artisan breads, interesting cheeses and one head of a vegetable oddity, romanesco. H and I strolled the aisles twice, chatting with a few vendors and sampling an item or two as we selected our treasures. How funny that a cheese seller didn't know the origin of the name "Pluvius" for one of his products and I did - Pluvius is/well, was a small town in Pacific County, SW Washington state. Not familiar? well, maybe you know nearby Pe Ell, or maybe not. Name familiarity aside, I didn't care much for the cheese; a bit too salty. 

The big find of the day was waiting for us in the Market Bites area, a location for the prepared-food vendors. While we didn't love the ginger lemonade, oh! my! goodness! the grilled vegetable tacos were over-the-top delicious. Bite-sized pieces of mixed vegetables were piled on a lightly-oiled hot grill, dusted with cumin and chili powder and quickly seared. Large flour tortillas were quickly warmed on one side, filled with grilled vegetables and a scattering of cheese, folded and crisped on the same grill. Served with a wedge of lime, these treats had us rolling our eyes in delight, so busy enjoying the taco that we didn't pause to talk.

Guess what I made for lunch on Sunday? Grilled Vegetable Tacos, of course, but prepared inside on my stove-top grill. Vegie tacos are a new must-have favorite for lunch or dinner. Maybe add some eggs and enjoy them at breakfast. Change up the vegetables, add mushrooms or cowboy beans or even some crumbled chorizo or bacon. Whatever, just get grilling. 

Grilled Vegetable Tacos

Fresh vegetables are essential, though frozen corn could substitute for fresh. I recommend the following, cut into bite-sized pieces:
1 small zucchini
1 poblano chile
1 ear corn
3-4 large leaves of curly kale
3-4 scallions (or 1/4 cup sweet onion slivers)
a handful of small multi-colored peppers ( or 1 whole sweet red pepper)

2 tablespoons olive oil or canola oil
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon cilantro
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon each of ancho chile powder and chipotle chile powder OR substitute your favorite grocery store chile powder

6-inch flour or corn tortillas
a handful of cilantro, chopped
1 cup of shredded cheese (pepperjack, cheddar, or your favorite)
lime wedges

1. Use a spray, or paper towel and a bit of oil, to lightly oil your grill (or griddle, wok or extra large fry pan) and preheat over medium to medium-high heat.
2. Place the vegetable pieces in a large bowl; add the oil and spices; toss to coat well.
3. Plop the seasoned vegetables onto the grill and cook until warmed and softened, but not browned or crispy. Move the cooked vegies to the cooler end of the grill.
4. Place tortillas on the grill to warm one side but not brown; then turn over. Sprinkle cilantro and cheese shreds on half of a tortilla, mound grilled vegetables on top and fold over the top pressing down lightly to hold it together. 
5. When the first side is lightly browned, carefully turn over to brown the second side. Remove to a platter and hold in a warm oven.
6. Repeat with remaining tortillas and filling.
7. Cut each folded, filled tortilla in half for easier handling, or leave whole. Serve with lime wedges and salsa, and offer some sour cream and sliced radishes or avocado if you like. 

Halibut Ceviche Tacos

Can you have too much of a good thing? No way, at least not if you’re talking about halibut ceviche. We ate it straight up at first, as an appetizer with romaine spears and fresh tortilla chips… and there was some left. I packaged up a bit to share with a neighboring boat… and there was still some left. Hmmm, maybe I had been a little carried away with the chopping and dicing, but no problem. The next day I served that chilled, citrusy ceviche for lunch, spooned on top of coleslaw inside a crispy corn tortilla shell. 

Ceviche tacos were a new-to-us menu item, and they weren’t just good, oh no, they were really really good!  Ceviche is already a hit prepared with this summer's fresh halibut, and I can imagine ceviche will be a popular choice at future Make-Your-Own-Taco Parties.  

Ceviche Tacos

Fresh halibut fillet (or another firm white fish, or even shrimp or bay scallops): skinned and cut in cubes (½-inch to 1-inch)

Marinade:

¼ cup lime juice

¼ cup lemon juice

¼ cup seasoned rice vinegar (or substitute orange juice)

¼ cup white onion, diced small

2 cloves garlic, minced

Salsa:

1 poblano pepper, stemmed, seeded & diced small

¼ cup red onion, sliced thin or diced small

1 orange, peeled & chopped in small dice (plus any juices)

¼ cup fresh cilantro, coarsely chopped

½ cup English cucumber, diced small

Salt and pepper to taste (optional)

1 small avocado, diced small

2 TBS reserved marinade juices (after draining ceviche)

small white corn tortillas

cabbage shreds, lettuce shreds, or broccoli slaw

lime wedges or a splash of Tequila

For the Ceviche:

Cut the halibut into ½-inch cubes and set aside. Use a glass container and combine the marinade ingredients. Add the fish cubes and toss gently to coat. Press down ever so gently: you need enough liquid to cover the fish completely, so keep the same ratio if you find you have to add a bit more. Cover and refrigerate until the fish is opaque, “cooked” by the acidic juice marinade, roughly 2-4 hours.

When fish is completely opaque, drain off the liquid, reserving 2+ tablespoons of the juices. Mix the diced poblano, onion, orange pieces and juice, cilantro and cucumber together in a large bowl. Add the fish chunks and gently stir to mix (a rubber spoon-type spatula is useful here). Add salt and pepper as desired. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Just before serving, use that spoon-style spatula to stir in the avocado and a tablespoon or two of the reserved juices.

For the taco shell:

Lightly coat a small non-stick skillet with a fine mist of cooking oil spray and heat over medium heat. Cook a corn tortilla, turning frequently, until warmed through and brown spots appear but not so long that it crisps. Gently form the warm tortilla into a folded shell and let cool draped over the edge of a straight-sided container until it firms. Repeat with remaining tortillas as desired.

To serve:

Place a bit of shredded cabbage inside a taco shell: use a slotted spoon to scoop up ceviche to fill the taco: squeeze a lime wedge or drizzle of bit of tequila on top and enjoy!